CASTAGNA GENESIS SYRAH
Genesis Syrah - 1998
This wine appears deep crimson red with flashes of magenta. It has an enticing
and elaborate array of aromas requiring careful consideration - red berries,
leather, spice, anise, vanilla and the faintest suggestion of toasty oak.
The palate is rich and immediately appealing with its sweet red fruits, vanilla,
spice and slight peppery overtones encased in a backdrop of fine cedary French
oak and balanced acidity. Aromatic and generous, it will appeal to those wanting
fruit richness as the main bill while the essential bit players of acid, oak
and tannin linger in the shadows. Delicious now but very capable of a few
encores over the next five or six years
.
Genesis Syrah - 1999
Flavour, complexity and elegance, the vinous trinity, can happily co-exist
together in the bottle; power and refinement are possible. The most appealing
aspects of this wine are its texture and structure. It's seductive, and balanced,
matured in a mixture of new and old French oak. Quite simply, this is a style
of shiraz we rarely see made in Australia; more's the pity. Incredible as
it may seem, this wine comes from very young vines. What will the future bring? A delicious and intriguing question to ponder. This wine is savoury, slightly
spicy but definitely not peppery. Gloriously aromatic - cedar, vanilla bean,
coffee, leaf, black fruits, anise and fennel. Powdery fine drying tannins
tightly bind the core of ripe black fruit that seems to linger on the tongue.
All this is achieved with an alcohol level below 14%.
Genesis Syrah - 2000
Deep crimson red. The bouquet opens to notes of undergrowth, red fruits and
violets; mingling savoury earthy tones with cedar, spice and vanilla. A restrained
wine at this early part of its life, with a spine of acid and elegant fine
grain silky tannins. Red cherries flow through the wine with elements of spice
and sappy, forest flavours - reserved and complex. Racy and fine - needing
time to coax the many complex elements into bloom. The art of seduction requires
patience: for those who can wait, or indeed enjoy the chase, the experience
will be a very satisfying one.
Genesis Syrah - 2001
One of my inspirations and benchmarks, when I started making wine, came from
the delightful wines of Robert Jasmin who is renowned for his sensual and
elegant Côte Roties. In terms of style, the 2001 Genesis is not that far off
that mark. Of the four Genesis so far released, this is the best. A wine of
finesse and harmony. The nose shows complex aromas of roasted meats, olives,
vanilla bean, violets, black pepper and spicy oak. The palate is crammed full
of ripe black fruits; the structure is seamless with fine lingering fruit
and subtle oak tannins; the endnotes are of cedar and black pepper. A poetic
tale of perfume, power and poise. (original notes)This wine has now begun to show itself with finesse and harmony. The very
complex bouquet is of polished saddle leather, violets, olives, roasted meats,
a hint of black pepper with a just a touch of spicy oak. The palate is lightly
gamey yet fresh and exciting with a lovely silky texture, real intensity and
length, and yet with a beautiful balance. The wine is delicately sensual,
complete and sophisticated very much a pinot lovers Shiraz and a fine forerunner
to the wondrous 2002. (updated December 2004)
Genesis Syrah - 2002
Visually it presents itself as a deep magenta/crimson hue, not black. The
initial aroma is of graphite, that old-fashioned, gun-flint aroma that one
rarely sees outside of the best of the northern Rhône or sous bois-style
burgundy. Then comes the lifted aroma of pepper, spice, liquorice, saddle-leather
and rose petals. The palate is a mirror of the bouquet - it is of medium weight,
the oak and fruit tannins are very fine, savoury and rounded. Sweet black
fruits, a twist of black pepper wrapped in a creamy textual flowing palate
that is feminine and sweetly perfumed. In time this wine will bear more than
a resemblance to a complex sans bois-style pinot rather than a more muscular
shiraz. It is aromatic, fleet-of-foot and sensually seductive.
(original notes)Visually it presents itself as a deep magenta/crimson hue, not black. The
initial aroma is of graphite, that old-fashioned, gun-flint aroma that one
rarely sees outside of the best of the northern Rhône or sous bois-style
burgundy. Then comes the lifted aroma of pepper, spice, liquorice, saddle-leather
and rose petals. The palate is a mirror of the bouquet - it is of medium weight,
the oak and fruit tannins are very fine, savoury and rounded. Sweet black
fruits, a twist of black pepper wrapped in a creamy textual flowing palate
that is feminine and sweetly perfumed. In time this wine will bear more than
a resemblance to a complex sans bois-style pinot rather than a more muscular
shiraz. It is aromatic, fleet-of-foot and sensually seductive. (updated
2005)
Genesis Syrah - 2004
An explosive aroma: black cherries, violets, a twist of black pepper, brambles
with the now characteristic graphite and bacon very evident, and to finish,
the scent of fine grain French oak. It is certainly the most complex and compelling
aroma I have seen in the Genesis since our sojourn began back in 1999. It
reminds me of a rose garden laden with early morning dew - the damp air infused
with an utterly irresistible perfume. The palate is long and fine with savoury
oak spices providing support without being bullish. A silky mouth feel is
apparent from the outset with flavours of black cherry, chocolate, violets
and leather strap liquorice coming to the fore. Nothing appears out of place,
the tannin and acid notes working in unison with the fruit.
CASTAGNA ALLEGRO
Allegro Rosé - 2000
This is not your standard rosé, Australian style: stainless steel fermenters
- banished; the standard fare of residual sugar - shunned; the trendy looking
bottle and café designer label - ignored in favour of elegance and
simplicity to pay homage to a wine style that should be better understood
in Australia. The wine is barrel fermented with wild yeast and funky barrel ferment characters
mingle with flavours of strawberries and cream. The hue of wash crimson is
quite deep for a rosé and suggests a wine of substance. It delivers!
Generous flavours coat all corners of the mouth. Gentle tannins and racy acidity
draw out the luscious sweet fruit. Drink it slightly chilled in a big glass.
A perfect accessory for a hot summer's day as you loll around the house.
Allegro - 2001
Aromatically sensual with notes of funky strawberries and cream - a wine with
a lovely deep crimson wash. Full throttle fruit: rich, rolling, juicy, complex
and dry with just a touch of fine grain oak and cleansing acid with mineral
notes, which cut across the decadent fruit. This is a lovely summer wine,
please take it seriously, it deserves to be. Drink it slightly chilled.
Allegro - 2002
Deep salmon pink in colour. On the nose a fragrant combination of red cherries
and wild strawberries - summer fruit in a glass. Rich, unctuous and mouth-filling;
the fruit meanders to the back of the mouth carried by punchy acidity. The
intensity and depth of the sweet, ripe fruit elevates this wine into a category
all on its own. This is more a summer dry red wine albeit with complexity
and attitude - quite different from what has become known as rosé, here in
Australia. A balmy night, fish and chips and glass or two of Allegro and suddenly the
world appears a little brighter.
Allegro - 2003
It has a lovely spicy, bubble-gum, rose petal, aromatic intensity - looks
great when chilled down. The colour is a vibrant pale crimson - you can just
sit and stare at it for ages. Rich sweet fruit fills the mouth; it is very
much a case of what you smell is what you taste. A little more forward than
the previous two vintages, the sweet fruit is given direction by fermentation
in not-so-old French oak, however, the Allegro signature of flavour encased
in a textural creamy palate, is there. More especially this year, I would
suggest that this wine is best drunk while lively and fresh in the first year
of its life.
Allegro - 2004
A welcome return to the fragrance and vitality that was the hallmark of the
2002. Wild Strawberries mingle with red cherries; with just a whiff of funk
in the background, and with the ever-growing presence of rose petals. The
aroma and deep salmon-pink colour heralds a rosé of substance. And
in this instance, the main fare is up to the fanfare announced by the bouquet.
The richly textured palate with abundant red-fruit notes inlaid together with
the tingling ripple of acidity and lightest brush of tannin lives up to its
beautiful perfume. It finishes joyously, with a spicy-fruity tang that lingers
forever on the palate - utterly delicious.
Allegro - 2005
Lighter in colour, more resembling pink coral, it reminds me of a necklace
my grandmother once wore - it is clean, precise and symbolic of warmer days
by the ocean. Strawberries,watermelon, apricots and a hint of wild fennel
bring a wonderful savoury note to the bouquet. A similar beat flows through
the palate with refreshing acidity phrasing the flavours. Not quite as lush
as the 2004 but longer and finer with lingering flavours of strawberries,
cream and apricots ensuring a joyous drinking experience over the next 12
to 18 months. Simply delicious. Drink it cool rather than cold.
Allegro - 2006
Coral pink in colour it reminds me of hues of pinks often seen on a coral
reef – sun, warmth, water – the perfect conditions for this style
of wine. Yet the red fruits have lovely savoury herb notes – the palate
is creamy and textural with the now familiar spicy edge showing through. It
is not so much about a single fruit flavour but more about a harmonious flow
of summer berries and cream that are simply best enjoyed as that. This year’s
Allegro is about texture with wonderful acidity to keep the mouth-feel fresh.
Utterly delightful.
Allegro - 2007
A striking colour of raspberry or red cherry; the bouquet delivers a savoury dried herb character formed around a core of red cherry fruit. A touch of nuttiness and earthy notes meander in and out of the bouquet as the wine opens up with breathing. The palate is a compote of anise, red cherry that is ripe and textural yet not cloying nor sweet. The ultimate test is if a wine is still alive and fresh twenty four hours after opening. If anything, this rosé looks better and demonstrates that this wine, like past Castagna rosés, will develop further complexity over the next few years.
CASTAGNA LA CHIAVE
La Chiave - 2000
Almost the colour of blood. The bouquet summons sweet savoury oak and weaves
through notes of Morello cherry, leather and undergrowth. It has a lively,
spicy, perfumery lift, which is very well balanced by the presence of well-integrated
oak. The palate is similar with a racy acid spine. Fine, cedary oak provides
a harmonious and structured element that is neither brash nor dominant which
complements the savoury Morello cherry flavours. A wine that cries out for
food.
La Chiave - 2001
A rather wild and spirited wine with multiple personality; well, it is Italian
after all. This wine is something akin to a cherry orchard growing in the
heart of the forest. Overtones of mushrooms, undergrowth and saddle leather
mix with black cherries. There is a core of ripe fruit but it is neither sweet
nor simple. Flavours of black cherries, dark cooking chocolate, earth and
sous bois are nicely wrapped in fine cedary tannins. A drying finish with
tingling acidity keeps the flavours rolling well after the wine has disappeared.
A thought-provoking example of Sangiovese. A wine that demands breathing and
is enriched by food.
La Chiave - 2002
This wine has a perfume of sour black cherries, blackberries, hints of coffee
bean, dark chocolate, vanilla and cedary notes. It reminds me very much of
a rich black forest cake with violets, spice, pepper, and as it opens the
aroma of damp roses. Taste it, and your palate is attacked from every direction;
black cherries, slithers of vanilla bean, very fine cedary tannins, and plenty
of them, with a supple mid-palate and a long savoury finish that seems to
never end. Very structured but with an inner core of intense fruit that will
continue to emerge and flow over the tannins over the next five years. It
needs time. It needs food. It needs big glasses.
La Chiave - 2004
Wildly enticing, ethereal - a seduction of the senses. Roasted meats,
sour cherries, earth, undergrowth and the sweet scent of rose petals make
a bold introduction. A tensile spine of fine tannins and acid gives form and
support to the fruit. Rich in the mouth, it provides gobs of ripe black cherry
fruit, sweet and chocolatey at first impression. Then the tannins and seamless
oak step in and take the fruit on a long, joyful ride that ends with a dry,
savoury taper. A truly compelling wine with wild sous bois - like character
and generous fruit impact.
CASTAGNA SAUVAGE
Sauvage 2000
In bottle the Castagna 2000 Sauvage shows itself to be a wonderful combination
of tailor's shop and spice emporium: leather, suede, vanilla, cinnamon, oak
and spices all beguile the senses, and in turn, all are bonded to a central
aroma of ripe blackcurrant, on a superb base of ripe tannins.The palate has a rich attack of plum, blackcurrant and spices, drawn together
by the fine-grain oak and meandering acids. The oak will settle quickly amidst
the succulent fruit. The rich drying tannins and balanced acid will ensure
longevity although, the wine is very seductive now, and it will be hard not
to drink it early.
Sauvage 2003
This wine is a wonderful introduction to the wines of Castagna. Showing an
array of rich, ripe, plumy flavours, black berries and savoury flashes of
smoky bacon, it is a blend of Shiraz a little Viognier and a spoonful of Sangiovese.
The wine combines a powerful earthiness with tones of saddle leather, dried
herbs and violets - it speaks powerfully of the land from whence it came.
The fruit is rich plum with charry overtones, the palate is dominated by sweet
black fruit, and, as always in Castagna, very fine grain tannins. Outstanding
value. (original notes)
Patience is a virtue. Having revisited the 2003 Sauvage recently, I thought
it might be useful to share my thoughts on its progress. Upon opening I was
delighted by its development. Slowly but surely the vineyard characters are
starting to emerge - black cherry, liquorice and floral notes of damp roses
now coming to the fore. Still very much in the riper, sweeter fruit spectrum
but I can now see the vineyard's terroir winning out - a lesson to be learnt:
good wine always tells its own story in its own time. On the palate the impact
is of lush, ripe, black berries with masses of silky fine tannins. It is evolving
into a wine that delivers warmth and assurance which will provide drinking
pleasure over the next 4 to 6 years. (updated 2006)
CASTAGNA INGÉNUE
Ingénue - 2003
The colour is deepish green/gold with a bouquet of apricots, funky notes with
a gentle overlay of spicy oak that pulls the fruit aroma into tow. Strongly
varietal without being overt. The palate is creamy, rich, but neither sweet
nor cloying. Oak and acid structure pull the wine to the back palate ensuring
a long finish. Spliced into the creamy texture is the flavour of freshly stewed
apricots, a lick of honey and spicy oak notes to season the fruit. A wine
with an intense perfume and an elegant restrained but long palate.
Ingénue - 2004
Quite intense lime blossom - the curious element of the vintage - pairs well
with the more normal expected apricot flavours. A dab of musk, a splash of
wet stone and a twist of vanilla adds the final touches. Rich in texture and
full in flavour, the Ingénue 2004 is a tad more precocious than the
2003 Ingénue. Spicy oak notes provide the final seasoning that compliments
the rich, apricot, lime and vanilla flavours. More buxom in its proportions
but still very much with the X-factor appeal. World class.
Ingénue - 2005
The 2005 Ingénue has the depth and presence that I strive for in the
wines I craft. The bouquet is vibrant, intense and varietal without being
obvious. Ripe fresh apricots, lime blossom and delicate wood spices are the
more pronounced aromas. Seamless on the palate, the acidity coaxes the perfectly
ripened fruit notes and creamy textural elements to spill effortlessly onto
the back palate. If it were food it would be the most delicate apricot soufflé
with a trickling of vanilla cream.
Ingénue - 2006
A fanfare of freshly picked apricot, orange peel spice and submerged below,
a hint of soft poached pears and quince. Quite full in the palate with the
overall sensation being more about texture than a particular dominant fruit
character. The wine has moved beyond primary fruit to be more about mouth
feel and weight. The finish is quite rich with the subtle spicy oak notes
and acidity dressing the soft poached pear and quince fruits.
